All you need are Pe-tsai (or Chinese) cabbage and some candied citrus of your choice.
Michel Bras never left the Aubrac plateau in southwestern France, where he grew up and established his restaurant near Laguiole village. A vast high plateau where the sky has no limit, Aubrac is the realm of natural beauty. Maison Bras was designed as an open window to the ever changing lights and colors of Aubrac for the guests to enjoy them as a part of the whole dining experience. “Gargouillou”, the Bras signature dish, was inspired like many others by this exceptional environment. Prepared with over 60 varieties of seasonal flowers, vegetables, seeds and herbs, the dish celebrates the nature and beauty of this magical plateau. Michel tells about his fascination in his own words.Continue reading
“Mémé” Bras have passed on her passion for cooking to son Michel and grandson Sébastien, and her recipes have been preciously kept by her family. Here is her recipe for a French classic dessert and an all-time favorite. All you need is eggs, milk, sugar, and some vanilla for flavor.
“So rich, smooth and tasty, here is Mémé Bras “crème renversée” (overturned custard) as we call baked custard in French. “
The Bras café-restaurant “La Halle aux Grains” will be located right under this impressive glass dome, decorated with a 400 meters-long panoramic fresco.
The Bras restaurant annual opening was delayed by two months and a half due to the current corona virus crisis. Since June 17th, Maison Bras in Laguiole is welcoming guests again, and Café Bras in the nearby Musée Soulages in Rodez, also reopened mid-May. This year, the Bras were also due to open their first Parisian restaurant inside the Pinault Collection, but this opening too was postponed to next spring 2021.
A centuries-old cheese culture
Cheese is deeply rooted in Aubrac culture. The famous Aubrac breed, beef and dairy cattle with a wheat-colored coat, are part of the landscape.
“Lou Mazuc”, the first Bras restaurant opened by Michel’s mother Mémé Bras in Laguiole village, was named after a famous song celebrating buroniers, these men who produced Laguiole cheese in shepherd’s huts called burons, or masuc in Occitan language.
It’s all about subtlety and elegance
I always feel uncomfortable whenever someone uses the word “bland” about Japanese food. To me, this could only be a false debate. The truth is that since the ingredient is always picked at the best moment, at the peak of its expression, and the role of cooking is to enhance its natural savor at its best.
A spectacular range of elaborate techniques
Whether you take the heat control, fermentation, aging process or cutting skills, every single cooking technique is perfectly mastered in Japanese cuisine, with utmost precision. When I say “technique” I don’t mean it in the way we tend to use it these days. I am not talking about technique for the sake of technique, that is too often used at the expenses of the food. The techniques I’m referring to all have a solid backbone that is built upon experience, observation, and a profound, almost spiritual respect for the ingredient.
Koganeyama Taigen, Kasuisai temple’s “Tenzo” (chef). A famous specialist of Shojin cuisine, the Tenzo gives cooking classes open to anyone. The temple has Japanese style guest rooms too.
Kasuisai, one of the major Japanese Zen temples, is located just 2 hours away from Tokyo in a beautiful countryside. Former “Food & Wine ” editor-in-chief Dana Cowin traveled to Kakegawa to discover the art of traditional Zen cuisine known as “Shojin ryori” with the temple’s chef, Koganeyama Taigen.
Kasuisai Temple and the meditation hall Continue reading
Japanese food culture is a major source of inspiration for many, and its influence can be seen all around the world. Let me tell you about my personal experience with this incredibly rich, complex and diverse cuisine.
I first travelled to Japan about 30 years ago. A Tokyo restaurant called Isolde in Roppongi area, asked me to cook for its customers for just a week. Then I ended up going back to their kitchen for 3 years in a row…We became friends with the owner, Mr.Yamaguchi, who opened up our eyes on Japanese culture. He took us to street food, sophisticated restaurants, and even to the workshop of a blacksmith. My first visit to the fish market, which was still located in Tsukiji, was simply fascinating. That market was just like a live encyclopedia, where I kept going back over the following years.
Michel and Sebastien recently published [Le Goût du Jardin], an amazing book about their beautiful garden. Herbs, flowers, vegetables, fruits, seeds, trees are presented just like an herborium, with dazzling photographs on every pages.
Ever since he started to cook, Michel developed a passion for plants. He has created his garden over many years, bringing home seeds and plants from all over the world, from Latin America to Asia, Europe to Africa. It is no coincidence that his signature dish, the Gargouillou, is all about herbs, flowers, vegetables, seeds that grow in a garden. Continue reading